Question

" Hi James, My boyfriend and I are regular travellers to the Caribbean (to give you an idea, we've both visited Tobago twice, and I've been to Barbados 20 times!!!!!!!).

In March, we're hoping to go to Tobago again, but fly to Union Island and spend a week or so in the Grenadines, not decided which islands yet - however we did LOVE Mayreau & Union Island when we did a 1 day Grenadines trip this year, and would consider others too! I'm having difficulty finding places to stay, and wondered if you could help.

We don't mind rustic, and usually stay in apartments, cottages etc that are under $100 a night for the room. If you have any ideas, they would be most appreciated! Thanks in advance for your help.." Mandy Henry, Presenter for MUTV

James replies:

First off you have chosen a great area. You’ll know from a quick look on your day trip that St Vincent and the Grenadines are exceptionally attractive and have endless small island charm. They are also one of the few areas in the Caribbean where you can island hop relatively easily without spending too much money. The BVI have a similar physical charm, but they are more expensive and generally more developed. The islands around Guadeloupe also have small island charm, but are not quite as easy to get around. One of the best ways to get around the Grenadines is by mail boat – among all the breeze blocks, soft drinks, goats and, well, the mail - which is always fun.

Starting in the south, with the islands you know, Union has been called the ‘train station of the Grenadines’, which is a bit unfair because it does have its own easy character, particularly away from the two towns, but it is not exactly a classic Caribbean escape. Clifton, the main town and dock, is the hub of the sailing activity in the area and while there is plenty on offer (a good cup of coffee, for instance, which can be hard to find elsewhere), with all the seaborne activity it does feel rather functional.

There is not a lot of choice of accommodation on Union either. The best place is probably the newly renovated Big Sand Hotel, which is away from the town in its own barely developed bay. There are some self-catering apartments on a nice enough beach. The Clifton Beach Hotel on the waterfront in town is pretty cheap but probably best only if you are catching an early ferry. The jury is out on the Anchorage (hotel) at the moment.

You’re right about Mayreau. It’s a delightful island. There are two cracking beaches (Saline Bay and Saltwhistle Bay) and some sandy nooks where you can go snorkelling and hide away. And it is a classic, small Caribbean island community. The ‘town’ (it’s a village, really) takes only ten minutes to wander around, but it is surprisingly lively on a Friday or Saturday night when all the stereo systems are competing with one another to make the loudest noise. In terms of accommodation, there are only a couple of options. The Saltwhistle Bay Club is a Caribbean classic, but may cost more than you’d like to spend, so Dennis's Hideaway (the only other place, really) is probably right for you.

Canouan is next in line. Here the ferry puts in to the ‘local’ side of the island (there is a very good but expensive resort, Raffles, in the north of Canouan), on the waterfront in Charlestown, the only town. Again it has a classic Caribbean feel and it could be worth spending a couple of days on the way through, time permitting. There are a few choices of places to stay, all quite simple and not that cheap to be honest, around Charlestown. Try Crystal Apartments or Anchor Inn Guest House, both of which are self-catering. The Tamarind Beach Hotel has a nice feel – and you’ll probably spend a bit of time at their restaurant, Pirate’s Cove - but you’d be splashing out to stay there as it is expensive.

You will pass by Mustique as you head north and it is interesting in its way, but there is no cheap independent accommodation there at all. Whatever you do though, you should not miss Bequia, which is one of the loveliest places in the whole Caribbean. The Belmont waterfront is a picture, as pretty as a Cornish fishing village transported to the tropics. The beaches are good – some are classic, calm and have beach bars, others are tucked away and are more remote - and there are also a number of good restaurants and bars. Bequia is also ideal for independent travellers and has a good range of accommodation. If you do not take a boat trip from Union or Mayreau, you can take a longer sail, also to the Tobago Cays, from here.

There are quite a few choices when it comes to accommodations in Bequia. You could get a room at the heart of the action at Frangipani for $100, but there are also plenty of apartment rentals around the island. If you want cheap and cheerful, but still in a fun place, then try Keegans on Lower Bay, right on the beach. Elsewhere, two good options for cheaper Bequia lodgings in great locations are The Village Apartments and Sea Shells Holiday Apartments.

St Vincent itself, in the south at least, is pretty developed, and may not be what you are looking for anyway as a beach holiday seems to be your thing, but you might find yourself going via there. Not all of the ferries touch Bequia but they all start or finish in Kingstown. The small city is nice to wander around for half an hour as it has some lovely stone colonnades.

Hope this helps. Will.