Arrival
The first view of the Grenadines for any arriving guest is likely to be through the window of a small plane. The islands sit on a shallow volcanic shelf that runs between St Vincent and Grenada and they rise from the sea, some abruptly into mountains, others just enough to clear the waves. The colours change with them. Ocean azure becomes suddenly electrified. The reason for this is the bright sand, which reflects the sunlight through the clear water, throwing up luminescent shades of turquoise, jade and aquamarine.
The Tobago Cays
The Tobago Cays - Petit Rameau, Petit Bateau, Barabel, Jamesby and Petit Tobac (out of frame) - are five fantastic rock outcrops rimmed with bright white sand and set in magnificent clear water. They are made of coral (which erodes into the fantastic white sand) and they are contained within reef systems which protect them from the force of the Atlantic Ocean. The islands are entirely undeveloped and form part of the Tobago Cays Marine Park, which is much visited by sailors. In the background of this image are Union Island and Mayreau (right).
Bequia on Approach
Airstrips often seem alarmingly small on approach, to passengers at least (in these small planes you can often look forward over the pilot's shoulder). Bequia's is a 'sporting' airstrip on which to land. The wind sheers off the hillsides creating sometimes 'lively' air on the approach, an interesting challenge for the pilot. The island, which lies nine miles south of St Vincent, is charming and has a community of 7000, many based in the delightful harbour town of Port Elizabeth. This tapering strip of land at the south-western point has been developed with a series of eccentric, open-air houses built around the rocks called Moonhole. In the background on the right is the island of Mustique.
St Vincent from the North
Most travellers approach the Grenadines from Barbados, but some fly from St Lucia, the next island to the north in the chain of the Windwards. St Vincent is 18 miles long by 11 across at its widest, but from over 5000 feet it is possible to see the whole island laid out ahead. Much of the land is above 2000 feet, so St Vincent is high enough to generate its own micro-climate. As they hit land the Atlantic winds rise on the mountainsides and condense into vast, sail-like cumulo-nimbus clouds, which tether themselves to the peaks… …and then dump the huge amounts of water which keeps the island so green.
Soufrière Volcano
St Vincent's volcano, the Soufrière, dominates the northern end of the island. Taking its name from the sulphurous smells it emits, is a relatively active volcano, which blows about once a century (1718, 1812, 1902). It last erupted significantly in 1979. Gases boiled over crater lip, racing down the mountainside and scorching anything in their path, and a cloud was thrown 20,000 feet into the air. It 'snowed' in Barbados - countervailing winds dropped white volcanic ash onto the island. Most of the time however, the Soufrière is quiet. Hiking up it, to the lip of the crater and down to the crater lake, is a popular activity.
Mustique from the South-West
Mustique is famous for its wealthy and celebrity clientele, many of whom have built spectacular homes on the heights around the island. Otherwise it is fairly typical of the Grenadines. Its east, Atlantic, side drops steeply off into deep water (dark blue, at the top of the image), but on the west, the island is shelves off into shallow water with reefs and a sandy bottom. There are calm and quiet beaches and flat anchorages.
Petit Tobac, Tobago Cays
Petit Tobac, the fifth of the five Tobago Cays, is a classic desert island, just a spit of land surrounded by a reef that holds an area of sand. The water is shallow enough to stand in. It is very popular with sail-boats and there are reefs to snorkel and lovely beaches. A day sail to the Tobago Cays is often the highlight of a visit to the Grenadines. People come from as far afield as Tobago and St Lucia.
Petit St Vincent
Petit St Vincent, a 113 acre island in the south of the Grenadines, is devoted to one small and extremely comfortable hotel. PSV, as it is known to aficionados, was built in the early days of Caribbean tourism, in the 1960s, mostly by hand (just imagine getting a digger onto an island where there isn't even a pier) and 40 years later it still keeps its spirit of elegant simplicity. There are only 22 rooms (a hotel chain might have put in 220) and it is so private that you communicate by raising a flag. PSV shares a raised section of land with Petit Martinique (underneath the plane in this image) and the patterns of the ocean currents are clear to see from the cockpit.
Small Island, Small Airports, Small Planes
Union Island is the drop off point for islands in the southern Grenadines, the start or end point for many of the sailing holidays for which the Grenadines are famed, and the transit point for day sails to the Tobago Cays. There is a feeling of familiarity as you transit the tiny airport. Flying in the small planes is fun. There can be a little bit of a stress quotient in rough weather - at times they feel a little like a fairground ride - but the views are of course spectacular.
On the Way Home
As the plane takes off from Union Island, the busyness and activity of the small island recedes and it becomes a spectacular and inviting sight once again, before it eventually becomes a memory. This is likely to be the final view as the plane heads north and east for Barbados or St Lucia.
