British Virgin Islands / Bars/Nightlife

By James Henderson

There are many bars across the islands, particularly along the southern shoreline of Tortola (the bars on the north shore are mainly beach bars). As it happens, very few of the bars on the island are regarded as “tourist” bars, but they see a friendly mix of the various expatriate crowds that live in Tortola (these include “salty sea dogs”, crews from day and term charter yachts, the “trust company crowd”, which comprises mainly of young lawyers and accountants, and older established members of the community). Many of the beach bars stay open in the evenings and double as regular bars.

Here is a selection of our recommended bars in the British Virgin Islands:

Tortola

Clockwise from the West End.

The Jolly Roger, West End - An open-sided upstairs deck and waterfront platform beyond the ferry terminal at the West End (of Tortola). It is a favourite hangout for the boating community in the area and home of the “Loyal” West End Yacht Club. Besides rumbustious evenings of drinking, it is well known for hosting a couple of good two-day regattas, with race starts and finishes taking place off the dock. In season they have regular guest bands that draw a large crowd.

Bomba’s Surfside Shack, Apple Bay - Set between the road and a narrow beach, overlooking Jost Van Dyke in the distance, Bomba’s is a notorious island institution. It is made of driftwood, leftovers from construction sites and hurricane debris, built by Bomba himself, a large bushy-bearded man. It is decorated with faded business cards, photographs and a bizarre collection of women’s underwear. Best known for its full Moon parties and magic mushroom tea, surfing (right offshore here), beer and basic BBQ.

Clem’s by the Sea, Carrot Bay - A sleepy and unassuming bar set back from the main road, Clem’s is home to the steel band Clem and the Starlights. You can occasionally catch them playing there when they’re not booked by another bar or restaurant. Also good local food.

CANE GARDEN BAY

There are lots of beach bars in Cane Garden Bay and they double well as general bars. Timings are haphazard. One day they can be buzzing and the next very quiet.

De Wedding - At the western end of the bay, slightly removed from the main action, a nice retreat for a quiet drink.

Myetts - Set back in the trees overlooking the beach, sprawling and often lively, with live music frequently on weekend evenings, often the heart of the action.

Stanley’s Welcome Bar - Sandwiched between Myetts and Elm’s Beach Bar, Stanley’s is one of the BVI’s traditional beach bars. With plastic flowers jammed in sand-filled jam-jars, perched on oil-cloth tables it is unassuming, but worth a stop. With quiet and friendly service, it is a haven on Tortola’s busiest beach.

Big Banana - The name is improbable, but the bar is a popular hangout for locals going to Cane Garden Bay. A varied but predictable menu, reasonable food and the occasional live band.

Quito’s - A Caribbean classic, wooden decks overlooking the sand and yachts at anchor, also home of Quito and The Edge. Live music several times a week, sometimes Quito doing his one-man show, otherwise the full ensemble. Occasionally just The Edge on their own.

Skyworld, Ridge Road - More of a restaurant in the evening, but a good place to stop in during the day (when the cruise ship crowds aren’t in at least) for a drink and the view.

EAST END
De Loose Mongoose, Beef Island - On Trellis Bay. Sportsmen and bathers by day, building up to a lively crowd in the early evening.

Cyber Cafe, Trellis Bay - The new venue for full moon parties on Tortola. Live music on the beach, family atmosphere, with moko-jumbies (stilt dancers) and burning sculptures by Aragorn Dick Reed.

The Last Resort, Trellis Bay - A bar and restaurant on a small cay in the middle of the bay, five minutes by ferry from the a pick-up spot. Often lively, with entertainment most nights, a band and a singing chef.

ROAD TOWN
There are a number of bars in Road Town. Many are really restaurants but they allow bar trade too:

Village Cay Marina - A popular stopover after work, or at any time of day for that matter, right in town overlooking Village Cay Marina from the dockside.

Le Cabanon - Bustling, open-air bar and restaurant opposite the ferry terminals on Waterfront Drive. Good mixed crowd that stops in for beer or a glass of wine.

Pussers Pub - On the waterfront opposite the ferry terminals, mock nautical with stained wood and brass. Can be lively, often with groups off the cruise ships.

The Dove - At Happy Hour this is a popular hangout for Tortola’s young “yuppie” crowd from the trust companies. Otherwise mostly a restaurant.

The Bat Cave - Currently one of the hottest nightspots, the Bat Cave bustles every night, particularly at weekends. Jamie, the bar tender concocts some top cocktails.

The Pub - Set right in the water heading out of Road Town at Fort Burt Marina, the Pub is home to many of Tortola’s older ex-pat community. It can be fairly rumbustious. The day-time waitress, Princess, does an admirable job of keeping everything under control and service flowing well.

The Virgin Queen in Flemming Street has a discotheque on Saturdays.

The Tree House is a loud, late-night bar next to the Captain’s Table on Inner Harbour Marina.

Virgin Gorda

Bath and Turtle, Virgin Gorda Yacht Harbour - Set on an interior courtyard at the marina shopping complex in Spanish Town. Popular with long-term residents on the island and the yachting fraternity.

Chez Bamboo, Spanish Town - Always fun and busy on a Friday night when the band Phase Two plays into the evening.

Rock Café, Spanish Town - Set on a series of decks among boulders on a steep hillside just south of the town. Or inside in the more modern Italian Italian-style setting of Sam’s Piano Bar, where there is lively music every night.

The Mine Shaft Cafe, Coppermine area - Set right at the south of the island. Nice atmosphere with lots of cocktails, from a deck with a view. Renowned for spectacular sunsets and their monthly full moon party.

Leverick Bay - A popular Friday night out for visitors and locals. Music on the extended beach bar and stage by the Latitude Stars and entertainment from stilted jumbie dancers.

Top of The Baths - Used more as a staging post for those land-based visitors to The Baths. They grab a drink as they wait for their taxi.

Giorgio’s Table, Mahoe Bay - Mainly a (Italian) restaurant, but also a very pretty place to stop for a drink and watch the sunset.

Saba Rock Bar - A blip of rock in the channel at the entrance to the North Sound. Somehow irresistible, but now quite developed and no longer holding the raffish character it once had.

Bitter End Yacht Club - Latitude Stars play on Tuesday nights and there is a limbo competition if you like that sort of thing.

Jost Van Dyke

There are lots of bars on Jost, but none that are not on the beach already. See under Beach Life for beach bars.

Norman Island

Willy T - A floating bar set in an old Baltic trading boat, one of the “must-sees” of a trip to the Virgin Islands. The “new” Willy T (now some 6 years old) doesn’t quite have the same charm as the original, but it is cleaner and more spacious. A riotous nightly assembly which culminates reliably in dancing, walking the plank (if you can walk that straight) and the infamous “body shot” (ask).