Jamaica / Restaurants

With its large population and huge number of hotels you would expect there to be a buzzing restaurant scene in Jamaica. Unfortunately this is not really the case. With the exception of Kingston, which has its own centre of gravity and some good places to eat out that are designed for the Kingstonians in mind, restaurants in the main towns are a little thin on the ground. The main reason is that the guests of all-inclusive hotels tend not to eat out a lot, giving a very small market for independent restaurants and making it hard for them to survive.

That said, there are a few places in each of the towns (some of them in the hotels themselves), which make a nice evening out. They tend to be fairly international in style, though a few do offer good quality Italian or French fare. Others have adapted Jamaican cooking to an international palate, using the best of the island’s ample ingredients and this can make for a satisfying surprise. At the other end of the scale, there are also many snacks available at the roadside and in the towns. Also, in case your children are pining for some chips, you will find many fast food restaurants in “American” style.

There are two types of informal Jamaican restaurants that you should not forget, however. First Jerk Centres, (see below) and then the simple and local Jamaican restaurants set on the beach and sometimes right at the roadside. Part of the fun is lingering in them, with a beer, sitting on plastic chairs at tables under the trees, while you wait for the food to be cooked round the back in huge pots. Usually the fare will be grilled chicken or baked fish accompanied by a mound of rice ‘n’ peas and a volley of ground provisions. It is an authentic Jamaican experience and always worth taking the time for.

It is worth knowing that the more formal restaurants in the main towns often provide a free hotel pick-up or round-trip shuttle service within their area, so it’s worth checking this when making reservations.

Jerk Centres

No, not gathering points for the socially ungainly, Jerk Centres are restaurants where you can get jerk food (see Special Interests - Food & Cooking). They are usually open-air, with seats around the barbecue area. It helps to know the system (usually that you pay for your meal in advance at one window and then take your ticket across to the barbecue area where you are given your food). Don’t be alarmed when the server pulls out a machete when you present your ticket. He will pull out the chicken or pork and hack it into bite-size pieces for you.

The cost of an average main course (excluding steak and lobster) is as follows: Inexpensive, less than US$10, Moderate -  $10-20,  Expensive - $20 plus
 

Here is a selection of our recommended restaurants in Jamaica:

MONTEGO BAY

Scotchies, Coral Gardens, inexpensive - Undisputed hotspot for jerk fare and a lively bar.

The Houseboat Grill, Freeport, moderate-expensive - A delightful houseboat in a lagoon setting that was completely rebuilt in 2004 and includes a lobster tank below deck. Fusion menu changes every four to five weeks, incorporating Thai, French and Caribbean flavours.

Town House By the Sea, expensive - Popular dining spot that has relocated to the seafront from the Georgian house it occupied for more than 30 years. International menu with Jamaican flavours.

Bobsled Café - This puts the cool into Cool Runnings by bringing to life the story of the Jamaican bobsled team that was made into the famous film. Pictures and news clippings cover the walls, along with the original Olympic bobsled used in the Calgary Olympics. Popular for its speciality pizzas, it also boasts Jamaica’s “longest” Happy Hour on Friday nights which lasts from 7pm until midnight.

OCHO RIOS

Toscanini’s, Harmony Hall, moderate - Authentic Italian food cooked by Italian sister and brother team. Charming old colonial setting with good service and art to browse.

Evita’s Italian Restaurant, moderate - Said to be one of the most fun restaurants on Jamaica’s north coast, serving up a mix of Italian and fusion cuisine with Jamaican-inspired pasta dishes such as “Lasagna Rastafari” or “One Love” penne pasta.

John Crow’s Tavern - A restaurant and bar set on the main road that serves a mix of traditional Jamaican fare and international dishes.

PORT ANTONIO

Norma’s at the Marina,  expensive - Long-standing favourite for top-notch Jamaican fare, with a sister restaurant in Kingston.
KINGSTON

Mac's Chop House, expensive - The smartest restaurant in Kingston - steaks, seafood, salads, modern décor and impeccable service.

Norma’s on the Terrace, expensive - Long-standing favourite for top-notch Jamaican fare. Has a sister restaurant in Port Antonio.

Red Bones Blues Café, moderate-expensive - Funky décor, interesting Jamaican dishes, lively Friday night bar scene. 

SOUTH COAST

Little Ochie, Alligator Pond, inexpensive - Excellent fish, just as it’s landed, tucked away on the south shore.