St Barthélemy / Restaurants

You can eat out extremely well in St Barths, unexpectedly well for the Caribbean, and it is clearly one of the pleasures of the island. First, there are many good French chefs; next, the island benefits from the same routes of supply as Sint Maarten/St Martin and Anguilla (with fresh ingredients flown in daily from France and the United States); and lastly there are good settings and plenty of willing and appreciative diners.

There are literally scores of restaurants on the island and you can find everything from cuisine “gastronomique” through Créole and provincial French fare, to pizzas and crêpes and then to exotic tidbits such as tapas and sushi. The food and the manner in which it is served is French at base, but it is generally adapted to the climate by having lighter sauces (without the use of cream) and using exotic local ingredients. Some chefs draw on the cuisine Créole of nearby Martinique and Guadeloupe, but others use local fruits and spices imaginatively. There has been a wave of Asian cuisine recently - as a tropical cuisine it may fit the climate better, but some say it is favoured by a clientele conscious of their weight because it uses clarified butter instead of cream.

It is worth noting that (again unlike the rest of the Caribbean), many of the finest dining rooms on the island are actually in hotels. Of course, eating out in St Barths is not cheap, but do remember that, this being France, service is included. The money officially marked for service may never actually reach the waiters and waitresses, however, so a tip on top for special attention is appreciated.

The cost of an average main course (excluding steak and lobster) is as follows: Inexpensive, less than US$20, Moderate – $20-35, Expensive – $35 plus

Here is a selection of recommended St Barths restaurants:

L’isola, Gustavia, expensive - The buzz is currently all about this seductive and classy Italian restaurant in Gustavia which is just about to open a gourmet take-out service. Owner Fabrizio Bianconi is also one of the partners at the highly acclaimed Via Veneto, an Italian restaurant in Santa Monica, California. This St Barts restaurant is ultra chic and metropolitan inside but look out the windows and you can see the chattel houses and red roofs of Gustavia.

Le Gaïac, Le Toiny Hotel, expensive - Elegant, modern Caribbean setting that draws on traditional Caribbean architecture and design, overlooking the half-moon pool and the moonlit Caribbean Sea. Gourmet French cuisine with ingredients from the Caribbean and around the world, local tuna and lambi, but fish from Chile and Scotland.

On The Rocks, St Jean - Newly-built restaurant on different levels on the flanks of Eden Rock. Very fashionable spot and gourmet French cuisine.

La Case de l’Isle, Hotel Saint-Barth Isle de France, expensive - Pretty setting on a veranda right above Flammands Beach, gourmet cuisine at dinner, sophisticated and simpler fare at lunchtime when you’re in from the beach.

Maya’s, Public, expensive - French and Créole cuisine in a very pretty waterfront setting on a deck and under palms, just outside Gustavia. Ever popular, ever trendy.

L’Esprit Saline, Saline, expensive - Very pretty tropical garden setting, tables under canvas and in alcoves of greenery, nightly changing menu of fusion cuisine, a mix of French, Asian, Caribbean and international flavours.

L’Entre Deux , Gustavia, moderate - This bohemian style restaurant is tucked behind Totem surf shop in Gustavia. It’s a bit like eating in a hippy treehouse with decking and palms, bright throws and Ganesh statues. Tapas (€4) and fajitas (€15.50).

Eddy’s, Gustavia, moderate - Asian setting in a garden courtyard in town, under an open-sided wooden roof, menu deceptively simple, but fine French, Créole and international fare.

Pipiri Palace, Gustavia, moderate - Tables under the extended tin roof and in the palm-bordered courtyard of a lovely old Creole ”case” in Gustavia (also an art gallery and shop). Créole and Provençal cuisine served with a breezy and charming air. Member of the Chaine des Rôtisseurs.

Andy’s Hideaway, St Jean, moderate - Open-sided terrace with gingerbread trim, looking on to, well, err a car park and the back of a shop. Its strapline is “Corked wine, warm beer, lousy food, view of a car park”, Ever-popular though, a lively crowd for pizzas and slightly more adventurous French and international platters.

Le Repaire (des Rebelles et des Emigrés), Gustavia, inexpensive-moderate - Popular stopover on an open-sided deck on the road into town, daytime drinks and salads, French and Créole cuisine.

La Bête à Z’Ailes, Gustavia, inexpensive - Great waterfront setting in Gustavia, tapas at lunchtime, sushi, sashimi and maki to go with evening music.

Le Grain de Sel, Saline Beach - Just before you get to Saline Beach and directly opposite the salt lagoon, this laidback find has a great ambiance with Spanish music and iguanas strolling around the wooden deck. Eddy Coquin is ready to serve you tuna tartar with ginger flavour and garlic toast for €12.

The Wok, Lorient, inexpensive - On the road inland, a Vietnamese restaurant run by a French and Vietnamese family, very popular with the locals for an unpretentious meal out.

Chez Rose, Colombier, inexpensive - Pick up the daily special (available Monday to Friday). On Mondays it’s Colombo de Poulet et Riz Creole (local chicken and Creole rice) for just €10. A single portion turns out to be big enough for two.

JoJo Burger, Lorient, inexpensive - Fabulous burger joint that also serves cocktails from 4.30pm and does a delicious meaty hamburger for €9.

Au Regal Snack Bar, on the road into Corossol - Footie fans should head to Au Regal where international games are shown at weekends. When famous footballers come to the island they all eat here. Local meals for less than €15.

Tamarin, Grand Saline, moderate - Bohemian, romantic restaurant set around a huge tamarind tree. Balinese feel with little pavilions in the gardens lit by candlelight at night. Good octopus Thai salad, local fish and sushi.

Takeaways

Gourmet takeout,  Maya's To Go opposite the airport is an island institution, with great dishes like Thai beef salad (€5), but for authentic Creole food try Spam To Go up the hill behind Gustavia .  There’s no spam but there are great curries and fish in coconut sauce (around €5). L’isola in Gustavia is the expensive new Italian everyone’s talking about but if you can’t afford to dine in, it’s about to open a new gourmet Italian takeout.

Contributors: Jane Anderson (restaurant update)