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Deana Bellamy and James Henderson
Key Features
Tobago – a low key, relatively undeveloped and friendly island with superb natural life above and below the waterline, a late developer by Caribbean tourism standards and still quite unspoiled; there are very pretty beaches, some classic palm-backed Caribbean strands but also remote coves forested down to the shore; just a few nice hotels (across the price range) but also a very good range of villa accommodation, both private homes and some excellent villa resorts; interesting restaurants, good value; some of the best scuba diving in the Caribbean, other watersports including windsurfing and gamefishing; on land truly magnificent nature and birdlife, turtle-watching and sports, good golf, excellent guided hiking.
 
THE DEFINITIVE TOBAGO GUIDE, THE DEFINITIVE CARIBBEAN TRAVEL GUIDE FOR TOBAGO

Tobago has a wonderful, natural quality, both in terms of its relative lack of development (by comparison with some other islands in the Caribbean, certainly) and in the island’s natural life itself, above and below the waterline. It has superb forest, flora and birdlife, and some of the finest diving in the Caribbean.

Of course Tobago also has many of the usual things that people expect of the Caribbean. The beaches to begin with. There are the postcard perfect, palm backed strands with white sand and gin-clear shallows, but there are also others that are wilder, more remote and incredibly attractive, with undisturbed forest that descends right to the coastline. And then the Tobagonians are easy-going and polite. Life is run at a gentler pace here than elsewhere, including the frenzied life in its sister island Trinidad. There is good nightlife if you are looking for it. Finally, for the Caribbean, Tobago is still reasonably priced.

There are two distinct halves to Tobago. The western end, with its stretches of coral sand beaches, feels more like the classic Caribbean. Here you will find the bulk of the tourism, with the sports to match, windsurfing and golf, and the hotels and restaurants. As you head east, though, beyond the main town of Scarborough, the land crumples and rises into hills and mountains, which are furred with incredibly lush greenery. Here you will find a much wilder Caribbean, less developed. Many Tobagonians live in simple villages clustered above bays and on the hillsides. The eastern end of the island has a magic that few places in the Caribbean can match. The hotels in this area are smaller and the restaurants are much more local.

And it is here that you will find the superb natural life. The flora, similar to South America, is staggeringly beautiful. Tobago is home to one of the oldest forest reserves in the world. The birdlife is plain to see, from your veranda or even your breakfast table. And, unexpectedly for the Caribbean, there is quite a bit of visible fauna, both on land and in the sea. Inland there are caymans (a species of alligator), iguanas, opossum or manicous and armadillos, called tattoos. Turtles nest on the beaches. The scuba diving, the best of which is around Speyside and Charlotteville at the eastern end of the island, is some of the finest in the Caribbean.

Tobago doesn’t have the extraordinarily mixed racial heritage of its sister Trinidad. The two were linked politically only in 1884, and before that the island’s history was more similar to the Windward Islands farther north, with its sugar and cocoa plantations. There are some Trinidadian influences in the food, but the population is still overwhelmingly of African descent.

In many ways it is due to this connection with Trinidad that Tobago has developed more slowly than the other Caribbean islands. Trinidad’s wealth (largely from oil and natural gas) meant that there was less drive to develop the island. In fact many Trinidadians didn’t want Tobago to be developed. The result is that where the other islands pushed on and modernised, Tobago retains some of its gentle, old time Caribbean atmosphere, in most areas at least. The island is beginning to awaken, though. It has its own budget to develop tourism and there are plans afoot. But for the moment, Tobago retains its wonderful natural air.
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Accommodation
Tobago has unexpectedly little accommodation in the typical Caribbean mould of large beachfront resort hotels. There is just a small number of nice places to stay and there is very little at the top of the range, by comparison with say Barbados or St Lucia. And quite a few of the hotels that are there have adopted an all-inclusive formula anyway. If you look, though, you will find there are some small Caribbean classics, including small properties tucked away in the island’s magnificent countryside. Another option well worth considering is to stay in a villa, possibly a villa resort, of which there are plenty.

The best accommodation in Tobago is listed below, with links to their individual pages on DefinitiveCaribbean.

Hotels & Resorts
There are surprisingly few nice hotels in the traditional Caribbean mould, though plans are afoot for several new ones in interesting style. For the moment, the two worthy of mention are Coco Reef, a beachfront resort close to the airport and Blue Haven closer to the capital.


Blue Haven Hotel
A stylish small hotel set on a cliff-top above a very attractive beach on the south coast of Tobago. Blue Haven has a mix of styles, modern, West Indian and nautical, with polished wood and canvas. It has a classic Caribbean atmosphere and is a very nice very low key hotel, ideal for independent travellers.
Key Features: Atmospheric, low key, oceanfront hotel in Tobago with 55 rooms and suites above Bacolet Bay beach. Swimming pool, massage and beauty treatments, Shutters On The Bay restaurant, No Problem beach bar, lounge/terrace bar, conference room, children’s playground, fitness area and floodlit tennis court.
From US$185/night in summer
Coco Reef
Large and lively beachfront resort set on its own secluded beach and in delightful gardens at the western tip of the island.
Key Features: Finest Tobago hotel, some suites, modern buildings with touches of traditional Caribbean style, two restaurants, champagne bar, lounge bar, fitness centre, tennis courts, small swimming pool, spa for beauty and massage, non-motorised watersports, dive shop, calm sea.
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Small Hotels & Inns
There are some delightful smaller properties that have their own idiosyncratic style and specialities in certain areas. Kariwak Village is strong on holistic activities and Blue Waters Inn has superb diving and birding.


Bamboo Walk Hotel
A small, relaxed hotel set in a pretty garden within walking distance of Little Rockley Bay’s Lowland Beach, on Tobago’s Atlantic side. Recently refurbished, Bamboo Walk Hotel has just 12 simple rooms around a central swimming pool, bar and restaurant. An inexpensive, friendly Tobago inn in a good location for independent travellers.
Key Features: A charming 12-room Tobago inn within easy reach of Lowlands Beach. All rooms with air-conditioning, en suite bathroom, colour cable TV and private patio with hammock – superiors with small fridge. Swimming pool with surrounding lawns for sunbathing. Surf’n’Turf restaurant (breakfast, lunch and dinner) and bar. Live entertainment and BBQ on Fridays. Guided tours, hikes and activities arranged. WiFi access in all rooms and around the the hotel. In-room massage therapy available.
From US$60/night in summer
Blue Waters Inn
A delightful small hotel in beach club style set in its own fantastically pretty, remote cove in north-eastern Tobago. Excellent scuba diving, excellent bird-watching at offshore islands, ideal for tranquillity in extremely pretty tropical surroundings.
Key Features: Top Tobago hotel for diving in Tobago and Tobago birding, 46 acres natural landscape, 38 rooms and some cottages with self-catering, on 400 yards of beach. 5 star PADI dive centre. Tennis court. Guided kayaking and mountain bike tours. Glass bottom boat and deep sea fishing trips also available.
From US$140/night in summer
Kariwak Village
Small, environmentally friendly and holistic retreat set in lovely tropical gardens, a calm enclave in the busy west end of Tobago. 24 rooms, pool, healthy and excellent cuisine, yoga and Tai Chi programmes, 3 massage rooms, close to good beaches
Key Features: Intimate and unusual among Tobago hotels, 24 rooms in a lush tropical compound, palm-thatched dining deck and ajoupa for holistic activities, meetings, WiFi in main areas, Tobago yoga; pool, lovely gardens, herb and spice garden, environmentally friendly policies
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Villas
For the moment Tobago’s excellent stock of villas have outstripped the hotels in terms of value, style and comfort. Some are private villas that stand alone in their own grounds, but there are several extremely nice villa resorts too, which will provide you with the privacy of a villa but also central facilities. Development is continuing apace, with new villas and condominiums appearing, often purchased by the Trinidadians who put them onto the expanding villa rental market.


Sleeps 10
Mandevilla
Lofty ceilings, generous living space and sophisticated style of furnishings give this 5 bedroom villa a contemporary, Caribbean ambiance. Set in a well landscaped garden on the edge of Mt Irvine golf course.
Key Features: Perfect Tobago villa for discerning golfers, family gatherings and weddings. Swimming pool, Jacuzzi, practice green, table tennis, pool table, gym, cable TV, DVD, CD system and barbecue.
Raintree
Comfortable 5 bedroom/5 bathroom home with far reaching views of Buccoo Reef. Ideal for three generation family groups, 2 bedrooms have kitchenettes; there are upper and lower verandas and a delightful pool area with sun terrace, “liming deck” and dining gazebo.
Key Features: Good Tobago villa for golfers, Swimming pool (15ft x 30ft), wet bar, cable TV, CD player and barbecue
From US$500-600/night in summer
Top O' Tobago
A delightful 2-bedroom hilltop Tobago villa and three cabanas set in six acres of tropical gardens overlooking Tobago’s north shore. Friendly, natural and quiet, in rural Tobago with excellent birdwatching and nature. Top O’ Tobago can be taken as rooms by independent travellers or as a whole villa for up to ten.
Key Features: Versatile 5-bedroom Tobago accommodation set on a hilltop, which can be utilised as a whole villa or guest house Tobago style: 2-room villa, 3 cabanas (studio apartments), with kitchenettes and their own balconies. Full kitchen in main villa and sitting room with library, cable TV, VCR, stereo and CD player, limited wireless access, self-service laundry available. Pool, hammocks, loungers, lovely views from the pool deck, six acres of excellent tropical gardens, nature trails, coastal and jungle hikes. Bird-watching. Some yoga retreats.
From US$120-500/night in summer
Sleeps 8
Canboulay
A vibrant plantation style 4-bedroom house with contemporary furnishings and décor set in landscaped gardens above the golf course giving a perfect venue for carefree tropical living. Popular with families and keen golfers.
Key Features: A Tobago villa that brings traditional Caribbean style up to the modern age, swimming pool (36ft x 16ft), small paddling pool, cable TV, VCR, CD player, hairdryers, and gas fired barbecue. Beach chairs, umbrellas and coolers for the beach.
From US$400-450/night in summer
Gatcliffe's Villa
Very well furnished, colonial style villa with four en suite bedrooms, located on a quiet, breezy spot within a residential golf resort on the Atlantic shore. Would suit couples or more mature families, and is ideal for golfers.
Key Features: A Tobago villa that offers a great sense of space and open views across the golf course, swimming pool (30ft x 18ft), Jacuzzi, cable TV, DVD, VCR, CD system and barbecue
Il Paradiso
A bright and cheerful 4 bedroom family villa with expansive and airy open-plan living areas extending to a covered veranda and open pool terrace. Landscaped lawns giving onto the golf course and ocean.
Key Features: Delightful Tobago villa, perfect for families and golfers, swimming pool, cable TV, VCR, CD system and barbecue
Joie De Vivre
A spacious and comfortable 4 bedroom Tobago holiday home set on a hillside in Mt Irvine Estate. Inside, Joie de Vivre is homely, with some bright furnishings and contemporary style, outside it has excellent space including a lovely covered terrace with a spectacular view over Buccoo Reef and the north coast. An ideal holiday home for older families and couples.
Key Features: Ideal Caribbean island rental for golfers, infinity edge swimming pool with sundeck, balcony sundeck, rear sun terrace. Fully equipped granite-topped kitchen with breakfast area, open-plan living/dining room, upper floor covered veranda. Cable TV with surround sound, CD player, barbeque, electric gates and garage door. Close to tennis and golf at Mt Irvine.
From US$400-450/night in summer
Memories
A pleasant, modern Tobago rental villa with 4 bedrooms on two storeys, located in the well positioned residential development of Bon Accord. Life at Memories, which is set in a walled garden in a cul-de-sac, flows easily between the open-plan kitchen/living area and lawns via a covered terrace and a pool. An excellent property for entertaining, suitable for families and groups of friends.
Key Features: Well furnished Caribbean rental villa set in a residential estate. Fully air-conditioned and with ceiling fans in living area and bedrooms, spacious, fully equipped kitchen with corner bar counter facing dining and sitting area. Upstairs laundry room. Covered tiled veranda extends to a sun terrace and swimming pool. Gas barbecue. Bird-feeding station. Comfortable Tobago rental ideally suited to relaxed, family style entertaining.
From US$325-375/night in summer
Oceana
Very well appointed and extremely spacious 4 bedroom/4 bathroom oceanfront villa with private pool and Jacuzzi within the 750 acre Tobago Plantations Beach and Golf Resort.
Key Features: Great Tobago villa for golfers, swimming pool (13ft x 50ft), Jacuzzi, oceanfront deck, 5 cable TVs, VCR, 3 CD/radio/cassette players, barbecue and use of facilities at Tobago Plantations Beach & Golf Resort (extra charges)
From US$500-600/night in summer
Solitaire
Simply designed, well equipped, modern four bedroom villa with elevated views to the Caribbean Sea, an infinity pool and surrounding deck integral to the villa’s lifestyle.
Key Features: A Tobago villa where the inside integrates with outdoor living, swimming pool, cable TV, CD system and barbecue
Sugar Mill
A unique and utterly charming 4 bedroom property set in a replica 18th century sugar mill. Two bedrooms in the mill itself and two cottages, set in trees on a ridgeline high above Tobago's north coast. Excellent sea views and sunsets, ideal for romantics and as a honeymoon retreat.
Key Features: Unique Tobago villa featuring trompe l‘oeil and Italianate murals, roof deck and observatory for stargazing, swimming pool and Jacuzzi. Next door to Mot Mot Ridge, a 3-bedroom plantation-style house with pool – discount if booked together.
From US$280-325/night in summer
Villa Soleil
An extraordinary-looking villa with walls of burnished orange and extensive white wooden trim, set dramatically on a hillside near Arnos Vale on Tobago’s northern coast. Villa Soleil has four bedrooms over three storeys and is built in a striking mix of Caribbean and oriental styles. It is extremely elegant and open, and from its multiple levels and pool decks it has breathtaking views of Tobago’s north-western shoreline.
Key Features: Exceptional independent villa rental in the Caribbean, set over three levels, expansive open air living area with outstanding, fully equipped kitchen with bar and breakfast bar, 12 seat mahogany dining table, various sitting areas including furnished inner courtyard. All rooms with shutters opening to views. Large corner sundeck, barbecue area and family entertainment room with kitchen. Lower tiled sun terrace, 2 small pools linked by a waterfall. Cable TV, CD player.
From US$900/night in summer
Sleeps 6
Coral Sea Villas
A choice of 7 privately owned and individually furnished three bedroom villas with a Spanish-Caribbean flavour. Very well equipped with enclosed gardens, good outdoor living space and surrounding sun terrace. Will suit honeymooners, small wedding parties and families.
Key Features: Great value Tobago villas for families, each with own swimming pool, Jacuzzi, cable TV, CD player and barbecue.
Mot Mot Villa
A delightful three-bedroom villa in modern plantation-house style, secluded on a hillside above Tobago's north coast. Lovely garden setting with extensive lawns, excellent bird-watching and wonderful west-facing sea and sunset views. Suits mature couples or families seeking complete privacy. Tidal beach below property.
Key Features: Wonderfully private Tobago villa, two storeys with wrap-around verandas, polished wooden floors, some antique mahogany furniture. Swimming pool, cable TV, VCR, CD system, gas barbecue. Next door to sister property Sugar Mill, 4-bed villa with pool – discount if booked together.
From US$350/night in summer
Seashell Villas
Popular collection of two storey, privately owned and individually furnished gingerbread style holiday homes. All are set in pretty enclosed gardens and have very good outdoor living space. Perfect and good value for families, couples, honeymooners and small wedding parties.
Key Features: Well-equipped, well priced Tobago villas, very popular home away from home each with own swimming pool, some with Jacuzzi, cable TV, CD player, wet bar and barbecue.
From US$195-240/night in summer
Villa Being
A striking villa of eclectic archectural design, with several linked pavilions set in extensive landscaped grounds with five acre organic fruit farm. Stunning sea views from a cliffside setting, good outdoor living space.
Key Features: Contemporary Tobago villa, dramatic infinity edge swimming pool and sun terrace overlooking the coast, adjoining family games & TV room/fourth bedroom. Cable TV, DVD, CD system, barbecue, internet access, snorkelling equipment, daily continental breakfast included.
Wind Dancer
A compact modern 3 bedroom holiday villa with an appealing Caribbean design located in Bon Accord estate near Tobago’s western tip. A light and cheerful open-plan living area leads straight out to a west-facing pool terrace and a fully enclosed garden with a small area of neat lawn. Wind Dancer is a charming, comfortable home that will suit those seeking good Tobago villas within easy reach of Pigeon Point and Store Bay beaches.
Key Features: A charming, bright, single storey Tobago holiday home with swimming pool, tiled sun terrace, enclosed garden with electric gates and parking. Fully air-conditioned. Well equipped kitchen, large breakfast bar in open-plan living/dining area. Cable TV, CD player. Gas barbecue. Ideal for all ages. Suit couples, friends or families for a carefree, quality and very good value, vacation rental in the Caribbean.
From US$200-300/night in summer
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Villa Resorts
Villa resorts are probably the best accommodation in Tobago at the moment. They come in different styles and guises, but the common thread is that they have self-catering villas attached to some common facilities. In a small villa resort this may be just a shared swimming pool or a bar/restaurant and in larger ones there may be a range of sporting or spa facilities, but staying in a 'resort' style villa gives you the privacy and freedom of a villa holiday with some of the services of a hotel. It is particularly popular with families or those that like the idea of a sense of community around the beach and pool or bar. A villa resort also provides an excellent venue for private weddings and wedding parties.


Plantation Beach Villas
A delightful group of plantation style villas set in 2.5 acre hillside grove above Stonehaven Beach on Tobago’s north shore. Perfect for families, weddings and reunions, extremely friendly staff.
Key Features: Six 3-bedroom Tobago villas with individual housekeepers, concierge service, beachfront swimming pool, beach bar and café, gift shop, WiFi access, wedding co-ordinator, good local birdlife
From US$400-500/night 2 or 3 bed villa in summer
Villas at Stonehaven
A collection of 14 elegant and comfortable villas in French colonial style, set above Stonehaven Bay on Tobago’s northern shore with good wedding, honeymoon, golf and dive opportunities.
Key Features: Fourteen fully serviced 3-bedroom Tobago villas, baths en suite, modern comforts, private plunge pools, good local birdlife, friendly staff, restaurant, WiFi access, discreet conference room.
From US$250-650/night in summer
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Cottages, Apartments and Condominiums
If a villa is too big or extravagant for your needs, but you are looking for an independent, self-catering option then a cottage, apartment or condominium might be the ideal choice.

Tobago doesn't have very many good quality apartments and condominiums but you will find good value small villas and cottages at Coral Sea Villas and Sea Shell Villas. Please see the villa section above for further details.
Top O' Tobago
A delightful 2-bedroom hilltop Tobago villa and three cabanas set in six acres of tropical gardens overlooking Tobago’s north shore. Friendly, natural and quiet, in rural Tobago with excellent birdwatching and nature. Top O’ Tobago can be taken as rooms by independent travellers or as a whole villa for up to ten.
Key Features: Versatile 5-bedroom accommodation set on a hilltop, which can be utilised as a whole or individual rooms like Tobago guest houses: 2-room villa, 3 cabanas (studio apartments), with kitchenettes and their own balconies. Full kitchen in main villa and sitting room with library, cable TV, VCR, stereo and CD player. Pool, hammocks, loungers, lovely views from the pool deck, six acres of excellent tropical gardens with nature trails, and coastal and jungle hikes. Some holistic retreats.
From US$120-500/night in summer
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Guest Houses
There are many guest houses in Tobago but most are extremely simple, set in modern concrete houses with very little style. A villa that does have some comfortable and quite inexpensive self-catering rooms (which you can take individually) is Top O' Tobago. See just above, or link to their
Review
Sailing and Cruising
This and stay/sail is currently not available on Tobago except in the form of day sails.

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