Dominica / Special Interests / Eco/Nature

By Stephen Thorpe

The self styled ‘nature isle’ tag is an entirely suitable moniker, an apt description for a country steeped in a sense of the natural world prevailing over mankind - however, while there is still something primeval in the volcanic mountain landscape and wild coastlines there is generally no great variety of fauna in oceanic rainforests and Dominica is no different. The only mammals of note are the mongoose, the manicou (an arboreal opossum) a nocturnal ground forager, sometimes caught in headlights and agouti, a large herbivorous rodent, fond of fruit fall and hunted for the pot during the season, September through February. Wild pigs still roam the remoter swaths of the interior but are rarely encountered. A dozen species of bat have been identified, more than fifty butterflies, sixty resident birds out of nearly 180 recorded overall, and four types of snake, none of which are venomous. In 2007 National Geographic’s Centre for Sustainable Destinations ranked Dominica Number One in the Caribbean, a tremendous achievement for an island of limited fiscal resources.

Zandoli and abolo lizards abound, the latter much larger, blue speckled, and seen in dryer coastal habitats, like the Lesser Antillean Iguana, the green dragon, which can grow up to three feet long in its prime west coast regions. The large crapaud (frog), for long a favourite part of the diet known as ‘mountain chicken’, has come off the menu after a devastating fungal infection and rapid reduction in numbers.

Marine life and a largely undisturbed underwater environment have attracted global recognition and accolades, with fantastic steep walled reefs and pinnacles, clear unpolluted water, corals and sea life supporting a thriving scuba diving industry. The hawksbill turtle is often seen offshore, the giant leatherback breeds on the eastern seaboard where educational and conservation initiatives are continuing, and the loggerhead and green turtles are also occasionally observed. Moray and sharp tailed eels are abundant on reefs, rays, barracuda and myriad fish life omnipresent on the west coast. The sperm whale is an all year-round breeding resident and easily spotted in the deep waters immediately offshore; a skeleton of one of these mammoths of the sea has been imaginatively displayed on the terrace of the Anchorage Hotel, after being washed up deceased on a north-east beach. Humpback and short-finned pilot whales and dolphins may also accompany the regular boat excursions to witness them.

Good locations for nature and wildlife are the designated National Parks, Marine and Forest reserves, the Waitukubuli Walking Trail and other networks, Syndicate Forest and the Layou and Pagua river valleys. No one has to travel far or search too hard to encounter wildlife in Dominica - it’s all around. Nature finds you, and many visitors are astounded that birds will often nest in foliage on open verandahs at very close quarters, seemingly oblivious to human presence. Papillote Wilderness Retreat and Jungle Bay Rainforest Resort are excellent bases for wildlife exploration; there are a number of local specialist operators, including Ken’s Hinterland and Adventure Tours.

Eco-tourism Site Fees were introduced in 1997 to help with maintenance, and visitors are advised to invest in a Week Pass costing only US$12 if intent on seeing different locations or making repeat visits, which is excellent value for money. The main sites requiring a pass are: Emerald Pool, Trafalgar and Middleham Falls, Cabrits National Park and Fort Shirley, Boeri Lake, Freshwater Lake, Boiling Lake, Syndicate Forest, Soufriere Sulphur Springs, Indian River, and the Morne Diablotin and Morne Trois Pitons trails. Passes can be obtained at the office of the Forestry, Wildlife & Parks Division in the Botanical Gardens, Roseau, t 266 3817, at Visitor Centres and selected vendors near or within the sites – single Site Pass US$5.

Also see separate sections for Birdwatching, Flowers & Gardens, and Hiking &Walking.