Tobago / Special Interests / Birdwatching

Tobago boasts an astounding array of birdlife, with over 200 recorded species in just 116 square miles, the tightest concentration of species anywhere in the world. The island is only eclipsed in the Caribbean by Trinidad, which has over 400 species. Tobago’s birdlife has more in common with that in South America than the rest of the Caribbean and the island is on migratory routes from the both northern and southern hemispheres.

The Main Ridge Forest Reserve, which runs along the backbone of the island, is home to a large number of the island’s birds. Covering an area of around 14,000 acres, the land was set aside for protection in 1764 and was officially declared a Crown Reserve by a British Act of Parliament in 1776, making it the oldest forest reserve in the Western Hemisphere, possibly in the world. Some of the birds found in the forest area include the collared trogon, the blue crowned mot mot and a variety of hummingbirds, the most common of which is the copper-rumped hummingbird. You will also see the rufous-breasted hermit, the intriguing white-bearded manakin and the rufous-vented chacachalaca, also known as the cocrico. A member of the turkey family, the cocrico is the national bird of Tobago. It doesn’t look or sound particularly attractive and has a dreadful, very loud call, which is sometimes repeated in unison. Some islanders consider them a pest, but they are protected by law.

Off the north west coast of Tobago is Little Tobago, formerly known as Bird of Paradise Island, after 26 pairs of birds of paradise that were taken there from Papua New Guinea in 1909. The island was donated as a bird sanctuary to the government in 1928. Unfortunately Hurricane Flora in 1963 wiped out most of the island’s vegetation, and the birds struggled to survive. Today none remain. However the island is an important rookery for seabirds, and has a large colony of spectacular red-billed tropic birds, flocks of frigatebirds, red and brown-footed boobies and terns. The 250 acre island boasts up to 58 species of birds and wild fowl and parts of David Attenborough’s “Trials of Life” documentary series were filmed there.

Nearby, off the north coast of Tobago is another bird sanctuary, St Giles Island which is an important breeding ground for colonies (the largest in the southern Caribbean) of seabirds such as frigatebirds, man o’ war and red-billed tropicbirds. At least 24 species of land birds are also to be found there. The island is difficult to access as sea conditions are often rough and can be dangerous, trips are therefore very limited, and are for the serious bird watcher only.

Bird spotting is not limited to the northern parts of Tobago, and everywhere you go, you are bound to spot something interesting. The best time for birding is from dawn to just before 9am and then later on in the afternoon from around 4pm. At the Arnos Vale Hotel, which is set in a cleft surrounded by forest, there is a unique afternoon tea ritual every day at 4pm, at which numerous birds flock to be fed, some by hand. There are hosts of banaquits, blue-grey/ palm/white-lined tanagers, cocricos, copper-rumped/ruby-topaz hummingbirds, bare-eyed thrushes, red-crowned woodpeckers and blue crowned mot mots.

The former copra plantation, Grafton Caledonian Wildlife Sanctuary at Black Rock, located just behind Stonehaven Villas, evolved into a bird sanctuary when the late owner Eleonor Alefounder began feeding birds following the devastating Hurricane Flora in 1963. Over the years the 4pm feeding time became a feature on island tours, and now some of the birds, including mot mots are so tame they can be fed by hand.

Around the headland off Fort St James, near Plymouth, sunset makes for an interesting time to view the gulls and pelicans diving between the fishing boats, while majestic frigatebirds glide overhead. Amongst the wetlands of Tobago, which include the Bon Accord Lagoon, Petit Trou Lagoon and Lowlands (near the Hilton) and Friendship area, you can expect to find a distinctly different array of birdlife. This includes lapwings, grebes, great/snowy/little egrets, plovers, sandpipers, great blue/little blue and green-backed herons, black-bellied whistling ducks, ospreys and peregrine falcons.

Do not attempt to head out on your own, and do make sure that you go out with a reputable or certified (TTTIC) guide.

For guided Tobago birdwatching tours contact:

Darren Henry, Nature Lovers - Trained forester (Diploma in Forestry), Certificate in Tropical Dendrology (Costa Rica), guide with many years birding experience

Newton George - Very experienced bird watching and nature tour guide, also a Rainforest Reserve Ranger

Harris McDonald, Harris’ Jungle Tours - Guide offering a selection of tours including rainforest and bird watching walks

Yes! Tourism - Local incoming tour operator offering general sightseeing and special interest tours including trips to the Rain Forest and Little Tobago. Day trips to Trinidad are also arranged to include a guided tour of the famous Asa Wright Nature Centre, one of the main bird watching sites in Trinidad and a boat ride on the Caroni Swamp, at the Caroni Bird Sanctuary to view the breathtaking scarlet ibis, Trinidad’s national bird.

Hotels for birdwatching on Tobago include:

Blue Waters Inn, Speyside - It is especially good for bird watching, with over 50 species of birds commonly seen around the property throughout the year. The hotel is located directly across from Little Tobago, which takes approximately 10 minutes by boat. Trips to St Giles Island take about 30 minutes by boat.

Contributors: James Henderson (editor)